Cabinets are the
key element in your kitchen and set the 
tone
for design and style. If you replace cabinets when you remodel, you'll
find they are generally the biggest single item in a kitchen remodeling
budget. With the wide selection of materials, configurations, styles,
and features, they can also be confusing to select.
Always keep in mind the important role cabinets play in your kitchen. They should provide sufficient storage, operate easily, and maintain their good looks. Because they are not easily replaced, you'll want to consider your cabinet selection carefully. If you need to scrimp, this is not the best place to do it.
Pricing for new cabinets can vary widely. You may see two brands or types of cabinets that look the same but are priced at opposite ends of the spectrum.
Repainting or refinishing can be an economical solution if your kitchen functions well but needs a makeover. Consider this option only if (1) your cabinet layout is tolerable, (2) you have enough storage and counter space, and (3) your existing cabinets are in good shape structurally. Otherwise, you'll make your kitchen look pretty, but it will still be no fun to work in.
Not all cabinets can be repainted with good results, so assess what yours are made of. Cabinets made of solid wood or plywood are worth repainting. Metal cabinets require automotive-quality painting for best results. Paint bonds poorly to laminate or melamine cabinets and will soon begin to peel and chip.
The painting method will greatly affect the final outcome. A sprayed-on finish will produce the best results, by far. Painters who specialize in refinishing cabinets often remove doors and drawer fronts, then prepare and spray them in a controlled environment.
Remember that painting is a purely cosmetic solution. If you have damaged cabinet doors or drawer fronts, replace them before painting. And look closely at the sink cabinet and those above the stove—they tend to show the most wear and may need to be replaced.
When selecting a new finish, try to keep cabinet body and door colors light, and use strong color just for accents. Painting cabinet shelves and interiors is optional, but do paint both sides of the doors. Gloss or semi-gloss oil-based paints are still the best for scrubbing. If you use water-based paint, specify top quality 100% acrylic.
Finally, preparation is key. Plan to replace knobs, pulls, and visible hinges. Be sure to choose new cabinet hardware before painting so old screw holes can be filled and refinished if necessary. Any good painter should be specific about preparation details.
Pricing for repainting or staining will vary based on prep time, the type of paint or stain used, the painting/finishing method, and the hardware you select. At the low end, you'll have limited preparation, acrylic paint, and inexpensive hardware. In the middle range, expect good prep, at least two coats of top quality acrylic paint, and moderately priced hardware. Top-of-the-line pays off with thorough preparation, top quality oil-based paint, a sprayed-on finish, and high quality door and drawer hardware.
Think of this option as a facelift for your kitchen. Cabinet refacing involves replacing doors and drawer fronts, as well as treating visible front and side panels with a fresh paint job or new veneer. This option freshens up worn cabinets, while providing the latitude for you to change the style of your kitchen. As with repainting, you should be content with the kitchen's layout, cabinet storage, and counter space.
Quality of work performed by refacing companies varies, so be sure that you not only call several references, but visit and inspect the work. Make sure veneer isn't lifting at the edges and that doors and drawers are not ill-fitting.
You can greatly increase the impact of refacing your cabinets by updating other kitchen elements as well. Install new counters, update your floor if needed, change the paint or wallpaper, and select new cabinet door and drawer hardware to match the room's new style.
Your lowest priced investment in refacing will yield melamine-covered particleboard doors, painted or plastic-veneered cabinet faces, and inexpensive replacement hardware. Medium-range pricing should get you paint grade plywood or solid wood doors and moderately priced hardware. At the higher end of the pricing scale, expect hardwood veneers, stain-grade solid wood doors, and top-of-the-line door and drawer hardware.
If your project is more than cosmetic, you'll need to purchase new cabinets. Stock cabinets are usually the least expensive choice. They come in standard sizes, offered in 3-inch width increments (i.e. 9" wide, 12" wide, 15" wide, up to as much as 48" wide).
This standardization in manufacturing makes them easy to afford and readily available. If you need an unusual sized cabinet to complete your layout, however, you won't be able to get one. Instead, filler panels are used to close up the gaps and accommodate measurements outside of the 3-inch increment range.
Though they come in standard sizes and finishes, stock cabinets can be cleverly arranged to create a unique, one-of-a-kind look. You'll find a wide variety of door styles and door/drawer configurations. A host of "inside" extras, such as rollout shelves and lazy Susans, are also available in most lines, sometimes as semicustom features. They can increase storage capacity and make cabinets easier to access.
With stock cabinets, you definitely get what you pay for, so pay close attention to their construction. Find out what material doors, drawer and cabinet fronts, and end panels are made of. The pricing and properties of laminate doors will be far different from solid hardwood. Inspect the joints where cabinet panels and door panels come together (dovetail and dowel joints hold up better than those that are only nailed or glued). Finally, check the hinges and slides—with better-quality hardware, doors and drawers will open and close smoothly, without slamming. (Epoxy-coated drawer slides are quieter to operate. Ball bearing, full-extension slides open wider, with less effort.)
Within the stock cabinet category, prices will vary widely. At the low end, you'll find melamine-covered particleboard doors and cabinet boxes with inexpensive hardware. In the middle range, you may find paint grade plywood or solid wood doors, with moderately priced hardware. At the higher end, expect hardwood veneers and stain-grade solid wood doors. You'll also note better quality hardware and fittings such as full extension drawer slides.
If you want a real made-to-order kitchen, complete with specially sized cabinets and unique design features, you'll need to go custom. This is usually the most expensive cabinet option, but what you get is one-of-a-kind, designed and built just for you.
There are two options for the purchase of custom cabinets. You can count on a national or regional custom cabinet manufacturer. They build cabinets specified for your kitchen, have a wide selection of styles, can create custom finishes, and offer a myriad of accessories and special features. You can usually purchase these custom cabinets via a kitchen design firm, remodeling firm, architect, or interior designer.
Or, you can rely on a local cabinet shop. These are generally craftsmen who create cabinets especially for your job. They also offer a good deal of design flexibility and wide material selection. Sometimes a local craftsman can complete your cabinet construction with shorter lead times than major manufacturers.
If you choose a national manufacturer, you'll have plenty of examples of the types of cabinets and finishes available. Most custom manufacturers provide brochures and catalogs featuring their products and showing the many options available. You should also be able to see installed displays of the product in your designer's showroom. This gives you the opportunity to assess quality and style. Pricing will usually include all shipping, handling, and installation charges. You also get the peace of mind provided by manufacturer warranties.
If you go the local route, you may or may not see the cabinetmaker's finished product in a showroom. When it comes to individual craftsmen, keep in mind that no shop is equally good at making every style, so find one that has already done what you have in mind. Quality wood finishing requires great skill, and some shops fall down here. It's extremely important that you don't just call references but actually go to look at installed work. Be sure to get clarification on the materials that will be used—not just for doors and drawers, but the cabinet boxes as well. When pricing is discussed, make sure you understand what is included (for example, are delivery and installation part of the quoted price?). Finally, ask about the shop's warranties and service.
Anticipating costs for custom cabinets can be tricky because so many things come into play and manufacturer vs. cabinet shop costs vary. At the lower end of the price spectrum, you may get melamine-covered particleboard doors, painted or plastic-veneered cabinet face, and inexpensive hardware. In the middle range, you'll find paint-grade plywood or solid wood doors, MDF or plywood boxes, and mid-range hardware. In the ultimate custom kitchen, expect hardwood veneers, stain-grade solid wood doors, curved-base cabinets, full-extension drawer slides, custom finishes, intricate details, and top-of-the-line hardware.
Whether you choose stock or custom cabinets, there are four key features that affect cabinet pricing: (1) the materials they are made of, (2) how they are constructed, (3) the quality of the finish, and (4) interior accessories and door and drawer hardware. To make cabinets available at a set price point, manufacturers may compromise one to provide the other.
In general, cabinets with plywood sides and backs are better than those made of particleboard. The thicker the plywood, the better the quality (check thickness of cabinet sides and back—in lower-quality cabinets, the backs are sometimes a thinner piece of plywood coupled with a piece of fiberboard). Cabinet doors made of solid hardwood are usually better than those made of medium density fiberboard (MDF), but the reverse can be true if a superior finish is applied to an MDF door. And MDF is better than standard particleboard. Find out if the doors and frame are made of the same species of wood. Often, to keep costs down, the face frame of a cabinet will be made of poplar, a less expensive hardwood than the cherry or oak used for doors and drawer fronts. This doesn't affect construction but can sometimes affect staining and finishing.
Cabinets and drawers constructed using dowel or dovetail joints will hold up better than those that are only nailed and glued. Look also at the corner blocks inside the cabinets. Plastic corner blocks indicate a lower-quality cabinet, and wooden corner blocks indicate sturdier construction. Better construction methods will be reflected in the price.
Hand-rubbed stains and finishes are superior to sprayed-on finishes, and the more layers of finish, the better. Epoxy or conversion varnish is more expensive but better quality than lacquer.
Check interior accessories like shelves and baskets. Are they integral to the cabinet's construction or do they have an "after-market installation" look? Wooden and stainless steel accessories are generally better than those made of coated wire. Consider the hinges and drawer glides. Doors and drawers that open and close smoothly and do not bang or slam probably have better quality fittings. Also look at the number of hinges on the doors of taller cabinets. Better manufacturers use three hinges on tall doors.
You should also compare warrantees. How long the cabinet manufacturer guarantees finish, hardware, hinges, etc., speaks to the product's quality.
Finally, keep in mind that the level of service you can expect from the company where you purchase cabinets is also part of their price. If you see the same cabinets in two retail locations at different prices, you can likely expect better service to go along with the higher price tag.